Ironically, the sunniest of fruits are at their best at the gloomiest time of year, with varieties such as the Sicilian blood orange and the Spanish Seville filling the grocers’ shelves right now. These fruit, bursting with sunset colours and sharp-sweet flavours, are, I believe, nature’s way of assuring us of sunnier days to come.
Chocolate, orange and chipotle fondants (pictured above)
Fondant puddings may sound like relics, but I adore them. Without the sauce, these are pretty quick to make and can easily be prepared ahead of time, ready to go in the oven just when you need them. The sauce is very good, though, and can also be made a day ahead. Omit the chilli for a child-friendly version.
Prep 10 min
Chill 1 hr-overnight
Cook 1 hr
Serves 8
For the fondants
250g unsalted butter, softened and cut into 1½cm cubes, plus extra for greasing
2 tbsp cocoa powder, for dusting
125g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), roughly broken into bite-sized pieces
125g milk chocolate, roughly broken into bite-sized pieces
5 whole eggs, plus 1 yolk extra
225g light soft brown sugar
1 tsp chipotle chilli flakes
½ tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
200g creme fraiche, to serve (optional)
For the orange caramel sauce
4 large oranges
100g caster sugar
1 tbsp Grand Marnier
¼ tsp chipotle chilli flakes
1 pinch salt
Finely grate the zest of two oranges, to get one tablespoon. Using a small, sharp knife, top and tail all the oranges, then cut along their curves to remove the skin and pith. Place a sieve over a medium bowl. Working over the bowl, cut in between each membrane to release the segments into the sieve. Squeeze whatever is left of the oranges into the bowl – you want about 60ml juice, so save any extra for another use. Put the segments in a separate small bowl.
Grease the inside of eight dariole moulds with butter, dust with the cocoa powder, shaking off any excess, then put on a baking tray.
Put the butter and both chocolates in a heatproof bowl placed over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally, until melted and smooth. Set aside to cool slightly.
In the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment in place, lightly whisk the eggs, extra yolk, sugar, chilli, salt, vanilla and orange zest on medium-low speed until smooth and combined, about 30 seconds. Add the melted chocolate and butter, and mix until fully combined – about 30 seconds more. Spoon into the prepared moulds, so they’re two-thirds full, then chill for at least an hour, or overnight.
For the sauce, put the caster sugar in a small saucepan on a medium-high heat and cook, swirling the pan gently, until it melts and turns an amber caramel. Slowly add the orange juice, Grand Marnier, chipotle and salt, and whisk for a couple of minutes, until smooth and melted – it will sputter, so be careful. Turn off the heat, then pour the mixture over the orange segments, stirring to combine, and chill.
Heat the oven to 190C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Bake the fondants straight from the fridge for 18 minutes, or until cooked on the outside and slightly wobbly in the centre. Leave to rest for a minute, then, using a tea towel, carefully unmould on to individual plates. Serve with the sauce and, if you like, creme fraiche alongside.
Butternut and sage galette with orange caramel
This impressive vegetarian main course is a delicate balancing act between sweet and savoury. It’s rich, complex and very comforting. I could eat a slice three times a day.
Prep 30 min
Cook 1 hr 50 min
Serves 4
For the tart crust
100g plain flour
30g wholemeal flour
20g polenta
1½ tsp caster sugar
¾ tsp flaky salt
1 tbsp sage leaves, finely chopped (about 6 leaves)
80g unsalted butter, fridge-cold and cut into 1½cm cubes
20ml olive oil
60ml ice-cold water
For the filling
1 butternut squash, halved, deseeded and cut into ½cm-thick, skin-on half-moons (680g net weight)
2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1cm rounds
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to finish
2 tbsp finely chopped sage leaves, plus 3 whole, to garnish
2 tsp caraway seeds, toasted and rushed
Flaky salt and black pepper
1 head garlic, top cut off to expose the bulbs
1 banana shallot, skin on, top trimmed to expose the flesh
2-3 oranges, zest finely grated, to get 1½ tsp, and juiced, to get 160ml
50ml maple syrup
125g mascarpone
1 small egg, beaten
Heat the oven to 240C (220C fan)/465F/gas 9. For the crust, whisk together the first six ingredients with a good grind of pepper. Add the butter and oil, then incorporate the butter by squashing each cube between your fingers – don’t over-work it, though: you want chunks throughout the dough, so only squash it lightly. Add the water, stir to combine, then use your hands to gather the dough together – it will be quite sticky.
Transfer to a very well-floured work surface and roll into a 28cm x 18cm rectangle, flouring the rolling pin, surface and pastry as you go. Fold the longer ends in towards each other, so they meet in the middle, then roll out once. Now fold in the shorter ends to meet in the middle, roll out once more, then fold in half, so you end up with a square. Use your hands to stretch the dough into a 14cm circle, then wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
While the dough is chilling, toss the squash and carrots in the oil, a tablespoon of chopped sage, the caraway, a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Spread out on two large oven trays lined with baking paper; don’t worry if there is some overlap. Drizzle the garlic and shallot with a little oil, wrap both separately in foil, and put on one tray.
Roast the butternut and carrots for 25 minutes, or until golden brown, then remove from the oven. Leave the garlic and shallot to roast for 15 minutes more, then remove and, once cool enough to handle, squeeze out the flesh and finely chop.
Turn down the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Transfer the dough to a well-floured surface and roll out into a 30cm circle, dusting the rolling pin as you go. Gently lift the dough on to a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and refrigerate for another 30 minutes.
Put the orange juice and maple syrup in a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat and cook for about 10 minutes, or until it reduces to the consistency of a thick, sticky syrup.
In a small bowl, mix the mascarpone with the chopped roast garlic and shallot, the orange zest and remaining chopped sage. Season with a pinch of salt and plenty of pepper, and stir again to combine.
Spread the mascarpone mixture over the dough, leaving a 4cm border around the edge. Scatter the butternut and carrot haphazardly over the top, to cover, then drizzle over the orange caramel.
Fold the edges of the pastry up and over the filling, brush the exposed pastry with the egg, then bake for 30 minutes, until crisp and golden brown. Leave to cool for 20 minutes, then serve with the remaining sage leaves roughly torn over the top.
Tapioca fritters with orange syrup and star anise
These are like sweet arancini. They are very impressive served at the end of a dinner party, and aren’t at all heavy. They can be prepared to the chilling stage up to a day in advance, so you’ll just need to fry them and serve. The sauce can also be made a day ahead.
Prep 5 min
Set 90 min-overnight
Cook 1 hr 35 min
Serves 4
90g small pearl tapioca
420ml whole milk
120ml double cream
1 tsp vanilla paste
½ tsp ground star anise
3 tbsp caster sugar
⅓ tsp flaked sea salt
1 egg, separated, plus 1 extra yolk
3 oranges, zest of 1 finely grated, to get 1½ tsp
75g runny honey
2 whole star anise
15g tapioca flour
500ml sunflower oil, for frying
10g icing sugar, to dust
Put the tapioca in a medium-sized, heavy-based, cast-iron saucepan with 120ml of the milk and leave to soak for 20 minutes. Add the remaining milk, the cream, vanilla and ground star anise, place on a medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Add the sugar and salt, lower the heat to medium and cook for 12 minutes, stirring often, until the tapioca turns translucent and chewy, and the pudding has thickened.
In a small bowl, whisk the two egg yolks with three tablespoons of the tapioca mixture, then tip back into the saucepan. Switch off the heat, and stir continuously for about a minute, until the yolks have blended into the pudding, but not scrambled. Stir in the orange zest, then pour into a bowl and leave to cool for about 15 minutes.
Beat the egg white to medium-firm peaks, stir into the pudding, then cover the surface with clingfilm, to prevent a skin forming. Transfer to the fridge to set – at least 90 minutes, or overnight.
Juice two of the oranges, to give you 80ml. Using a small, sharp knife, trim the top and tail off the remaining orange, then cut down its curves to remove the skin and pith. Release the segments by cutting between the membranes, then cut each segment in half.
Now make the syrup. Put the orange juice, honey, 30ml water and the whole star anise in a small saucepan and bring to a boil on a medium-high heat. Leave to bubble away for about 10 minutes, until reduced by half, then turn off the heat, stir in the orange segments and leave to cool completely. Meanwhile, stir the tapioca flour into the pudding mixture until combined.
Heat the oil in a medium saucepan on a medium-high heat. Once hot, take about 35g of the tapioca mixture and shape into a rough ball with your hands; it will be very sticky, so you may prefer to wear gloves. Gently drop the ball into the hot oil and, working quickly now, make another four balls, so you cook about five at a time, until deeply golden on the outside and warmed through the centre – about four to five minutes. Transfer the cooked balls to a tray lined with kitchen towel, and repeat with the remaining tapioca mix. You should end up with 15 balls in all.
Divide the syrup between four plates, top each serving with three tapioca balls (save the three extra ones for seconds), dust with icing sugar and serve.
